Outside Taian Temple, in a fly-ridden street of roadside eateries…0

Perhaps it was the recent sweltering weather, or maybe the afternoon hours didn’t draw many worshippers. It could also be that the livelihoods and economy of Yidu had clearly declined. 1

But whatever the reason, the eateries on this street were all rather quiet. Few people sat inside to eat, while the entire street buzzed with flies. Some shopkeepers waved around their fans to drive them off, while others simply ignored them, too lazy even to glance at them.0

Song You picked a shop that at least made an effort to swat the flies and sat down. He wanted to eat meat, but didn’t dare order fresh cuts, fearing what he’d be served might not be all that fresh. So, he ordered a plate of cold-dressed fish mint and asked the shopkeeper to boil some cured meat to slice.1

Naturally, he also asked for a bowl of mao’ertou[1].0

“You got it!” The shopkeeper beamed.0

This street’s usual clientele consisted mostly of worshippers, small vendors catering to them, and common townsfolk drawn in by the vendors. Wealthier worshippers, after paying respects, would head to restaurants. The ones who stayed to eat here were just the everyday folk. 0

Mao’ertou was the best-selling item here. Many laborers and vendors, or parents bringing their...0